Before we can answer the question of when to hunt, we need to go over a few things about deer. Deer are nocturnal animals. Nocturnal means that deer can see at night, which is one of the reasons they are more active at night. Deer have more light-detecting cells in their eyes than humans, which aids their nocturnal vision. However, a deer's nocturnal vision is not perfect on a very dark night. A deer will spend more time looking for food and less time eating food on a dark night, than they would on a clear night with a full moon. Deer tend to be the least active on days following a clear night, because their stomachs are usually fuller and they are content to stay near their bedding area until sundown. As sundown approaches the deer will start the feeding cycle all over again.

Deer travel to their feeding area from their bedding area in the last minutes of daylight. On the reverse trip they travel from their feeding area to their bedding area in the first minutes of daylight. In most areas you are allowed to hunt from 30 minutes before sunrise until 30 minutes after sunset. This one hour time period is usually the most productive time of day to hunt. Many hunters seem to avoid this hour of daylight, I guess it is just not convenient for them. If a hunter is going to waste an hour of their hunting day, they should choose one at mid-day when deer are less active.

A deer's behavior is not set in stone. Their behavior is easily altered by several factors. The most common of these factors are precipitation, wind, hunting pressure and the rut. Deer will usually stay in their bedding area during times of heavy rain or snow. When the storm stops, deer will start moving for a couple of reasons:

The trees and brush are usually dripping with rain or snow and this noise will make the deer nervous, so they will move about.
They will also start moving if the storm lasted through their feeding period. They will be hungry and out looking for food.
When the wind blows it becomes noisy in the woods and the deer can't hear approaching danger, so they get nervous and start moving. Windy days in the woods can be very dangerous for hunters. The wind can cause tree limbs to fall and even trees can topple over. If you choose to hunt on windy days use extra caution.

Deer hunters roaming through the woods will cause deer to move from their bedding area. If other hunters are in your hunting area, this might be a good time to stake out a deer trail or crossing and let the other hunters chase the deer to you.

The rut is the period of time when bucks mate with does. The rut usually lasts about a month. In most parts of the country the rut occurs in November, although this varies depending on geographic location. During the rut all deer are more active, especially the bucks. It is not unusual to see a buck chasing a doe during the middle of the day, when they are normally resting. It can be said that the rut clouds a buck's judgment as they are often seen doing things they wouldn't normally do. I have observed a similar behavior in other animals, down at the bar on Friday night!

One last factor that seems to have an affect on deer movement is the position of the moon. Most of you have probably heard that the position of the moon plays a big part in the activity of fish. The moon also seems to have an effect on deer movement. The peak of this activity is when the moon is directly overhead

Which weapon is the best for deer hunting in each of the different categories? The answer is, there is no single best weapon for every situation.

The following information is pretty general and is designed to give the novice a better idea of what to purchase for a deer hunting weapon. I am sure as I can be, that if you ask 10 different people which weapon to purchase for deer hunting, you would get 10 different answers. The following is the opinion of Whitetails. com .

Purchase a weapon that is big enough for the job and you must be able to shoot it with a high degree of accuracy. If you can, shoot several different weapons before purchasing one.

Rifles - There are many to choose from, but I will only list a few.

Light End - .243 Winchester, 6 mm Remington, .250 Savage, .257 Roberts, .260 Remington,
30-30 Winchester
Medium - .270 Winchester, .280 Remington, 7x57 Mauser, 7mm-08 Remington, .284 Winchester
Heavy End - .308 Winchester, 30-06 Springfield, 7mm Remington Magnum
Authors Choice - .270 Winchester - Is an excellent choice, the .270 has plenty of knock down power with a light to moderate recoil.
Pistols

Light End - .357 Magnum
Medium - .41 Magnum, .44 Remington Magnum
Heavy End - .454 Casull
Authors Choice - .44 Remington Magnum - The .44 magnum has enough knock down power for close range deer. The recoil is heavy so hang on tight.
Bows

Light End - 40 pound Bow
Medium - 45, 50, 55 pound Bow
Heavy End - 60 pound Bow
Authors Choice - 50 pound Compound Bow, The 50 pound bow is a good choice for deer. A compound bow, with at least a 50% let-off, is ideal when your waiting for that perfect shot at full draw.
Muzzleloaders

Light End - .45 Caliber
Medium - .50 Caliber
Heavy End - .54 Caliber
Authors Choice - .50 Caliber - The .50 caliber muzzleloader is a good choice for deer. It has a moderate to heavy recoil depending on load.
Shotguns

Light End - 20 Gauge
Medium - 12 Gauge
Heavy End - 10 Gauge
Authors Choice - 12 Gauge - The 12 gauge shotgun is a good choice for deer. Use #00 Buck shot or larger, or shotgun slugs. To reduce the heavy recoil of the 12 gauge shotgun, try a semi-auto.
Now that you have chosen your weapon, get out there and practice. If you can't hit a deer sized target under hunting conditions, you might as well stay home and watch the football game. You want your weapon to become an extension of yourself. Practice finding your target in the sights. You might only get one chance this next season, and you want to be ready.

The hunters oath
"I, as a hunter, have a responsibility to the sport of hunting to make quick harvests and recover all game animals."

Quick harvests and easy game recovery can be obtained with accurate shot placement.
The three main ingredients of a quick harvest are knowledge of how a hunting weapon harvests game, shooting only within one's own ability, and knowing the game animal's internal anatomy. The future of hunting and a hunter's own self-respect depends on his or her ability to efficiently harvest game.

Internal anatomy of deer
Bow hunters should choose a spot in the center of the lungs or slightly lower to be their target every time. An arrow in the lungs will bring down the largest game, and the advantage of this shot is that the lungs are relatively large and surrounded by other vital organs: the heart is below, the spine and aorta (a major artery) are above, and the liver and the spleen are behind.
Hunters using firearms have many more choices than bow hunters. A bullet striking either the heart, shoulder, head, spine or lungs is fatal to big game animals due to the massive shock and tissue destruction involved. Once again, the chest area offers the best lethal target.

Bullets


Bullets harvest game by massive shock and tissue destruction. Bullets have a tremendous amount of energy, and if fired from firearms adequate for deer hunting, can smash even heavy bone and enter the vital organs.
Arrows


Arrows harvest game with razor sharp broadheads that are designed to cut tissue. Arrows cut arteries and veins resulting in massive hemorrhaging. In addition to severe bleeding, arrows passing through both lungs cause the lungs to collapse, causing rapid death due to suffocation. Arrows can cut through softer bones like ribs, but rarely penetrate heavy bones found in the shoulder, hips, head and neck. Both razor sharp broadheads and careful shot placement are crucial to game harvest.Broadside shot


Bullet: A broadside Deer offers several excellent shots for the firearm hunter. The best target is the chest area. Find the best aiming point on a deer by picking a spot one third to halfway up the side of the animal and just behind the front shoulder. A bullet enter the lungs or heart will provide a good blood trail and a quick harvest. A head or neck shot will drop an animal instantly with little or no meat damage, but should only be used if you are proficient enough with your firearm.

Arrow: A broadside deer represents the best bow shot because it requires the least amount of penetration to reach the vital organs. The best target is the chest area.The broadside shot is also the best angle for accomplishing a double lung hit, resulting in the collapse of both lungs. Find the best aiming point on a deer by picking a spot one third to halfway up the side of the animal and just behind the front shoulder. This will put an arrow in the center of the vital area by enabling you to pick a spot rather than shooting at the whole animal. An arrow will penetrate the ribs, but be careful to avoid the shoulder bone. Wait until the near leg is forward and concentrate on a spot behind the shoulder. Avoid head and neck shots when bow hunting. Wait for the chest shot behind the front shoulder.Quartering away shot


Bullet: The quartering away angle is a fine shot for the firearm hunter. Aim behind the front shoulder for an effective hit. The bullet will pass through both lungs and possibly the heart and into the far shoulder.

Arrow: The quartering away angle is a fine shot for the bow hunter. Aim at the chest area just behind the front shoulder. The arrow should pass through both lungsQuartering toward shot


Bullet: The quartering toward angle is fine for the firearm hunter. Aim at the head, neck or center of the chest for an effective hit. Be aware of where your bullet will end up. If you shoot a deer in or behind the near front shoulder the bullet will likely pass through the stomach and intestines (gut shot) and into the hind quarters. Always avoid the "gut shot", because the contents of the stomach and intestines will taint the taste of the meat.

Arrow: This is one of the poorest bow shots and should be avoided. Heavy shoulder bones shield the majority of the vital organs from penetration by arrow. Wait for the animal to pass by and take a broadside or quartering away shot.


Head on shot


Bullet: This is a fair shot for a skilled marksman. The head and neck are your only clean shots. The center of the chest should be avoided, because it would result in the "gut shot" (described above).

Arrow: This is a very poor shot for the bow hunter. The vital area is the chest between the shoulders, which is an extremely small target. Wait for a better shot.


Rear end shot


Bullet: The rear end shot is a poor shot for the firearm hunter. A shot to the body at this angle will probably ruin the best cuts of meat and will result in a "gut shot" (described above). A head or neck shot is possible if the animal has its head up. Wait for a better shot.

Arrow: This is a shot all responsible bow hunters will pass up. The hindquarters have very heavy muscle tissue and heavy bone structure which makes it very difficult for an arrow to get up front to the vital organs.


Elevated stand shot


Elevated stands and tree stands, are used by both firearm hunters and bow hunters. This elevated shot angle makes little difference to a firearm hunter, simply aim higher on the deer to compensate for the downward trajectory of the bullet. Lets say this slash ( \ ) is your bullet trajectory and the parenthesis is the deer, visualize how the bullet would enter the top of the deer and exit through the bottom.
The elevated shot angle results in a smaller portion of the vital area being exposed to a bow hunter. The vital organs are more protected by the back bone and shoulder blade. To avoid the shoulder blade when shooting from an elevated stand, aim farther behind the shoulder. Shooting from elevated stands makes it more difficult to achieve a double lung hit.

How to Field Dress a Whitetail Deer
You've scored, and that's awsome. However, your deer-hunting job is incomplete until your deer is in the freezer. We will show you step by step how to Field Dress, Skin and Butcher your deer.


Your buck is on the ground. But is it down for good? Approach the animal from behind, with your gun or bow poised for a follow-up shot. 

Most states and Canadian provinces require you to tag a buck on the spot. A few people attach a tag to a deer's ear. Many hunters tie or tape it around an antler.
Carry a sharp fixed or folding-blade knife and a sharpening stone or steel. You might cut through the thin hide just below the joint of a deer's hind leg and attach your tag there. 
Roll a buck onto its back with its head pointed uphill. 

The first cuts: remove a buck's penis and scrotum.Make a deep circular cut around a deer's rectum.

Some hunters pull out the rectum and tie it off with rope. 

Working from the rear up to the brisket, begin to cut open a deer.  Say you're right-handed. Use your left hand to guide the blade and hold down the paunch, intestines and organs so you don't pierce them. Be careful not to clip your fingers! 

Carefully remove a deer's bladder. Don't let any urine spill on hams
Reach inside the lower body cavity, pull out the rectum and remove it. 

Roll the deer onto one side. Lift the ribcage and sever the tissue that holds the organs and intestines in place. 

Roll the buck onto the other side and do the same thing. 

Reach inside the body cavity and around the paunch and make sure all the tissue is cut away from the backbone.

Pull out all the innards. Save the liver and heart if you like.
Reach as far as possible up into the brisket... 

and cut out the windpipe. 

The inside of your buck should look neat and clean like this! On the drag out try not to soil the body cavity with dirt and leaves

Clean, cool and quick are the watchwords
of good venison care. A clean shot,
a clean cleaning job and quick cooling of the carcass
are the key steps to good-tasting venison.
Immediate field dressing is best.
This starts the all-important cooling process.
Postpone field dressing only if the carcass must
be dragged through dirt, leaves or swamp water.
If it was a clean kill and a clean field dressing job,
do not wash the carcass with water.
Water promotes harmful bacteria growth.
If the animal was gut-shot or contaminated by dragging,
wash and butcher quickly.
"Hanging" or aging venison for extended periods causes
considerable weight loss by drying. However, the carcass should be thoroughly chilled at 35 to 40 degrees and go through rigor mortis on the bone before final butchering. Otherwise, the venison will be tough. A fat deer is generally a good-tasting deer. However, much of the "wild" taste is in fat and bone; boneless,
lean meat has a milder flavor.

How to Measure According to Boone and Crockett Rules There are two methods for scoring your trophy whitetail buck, Boone and Crockett and BTR are the two competing methods. Here the B&C method will be explained. So lets get right to it. You will need a 1/4 inch steel tape to measure the antlers. This is mandated by the rules, no other instrument can be used to measure the antlers except a flexible steel cable can be used to measure the points and main beams. Antlers or measured to the nearest 1/8 of an inch. Also no offical measurements can be taken until a mandatory 60 day drying period has elapsed. All points are measured for the tip of the point to where it meets the main beam and must be 1 inch long to be counted. (See below)

First, measure the lenght of each main beam. Start at the base and measure along the outside of the beam to the tip.

Now measure the bucks inside spread perpendicular to the skull. Using the proper angle find the bucks greatest spread. Note: Maximum credit for spread is equal to the length of the longest main beam.

The bucks points or numbered G1-G7 on each beam. Where the G1 is the brow tines etc. Measure and record the length of each point.

Now measure the smallest circumference between the base and the browe tine. This is known as H1. H2 is the smallest circumference between the G1 and G2. If there are no brow tines then H1 and H2 are the smallest measurement between base and G2. The last circumference is taken halfway between tip of mainbeam and last point if G4 doesn't exist.

Now add up all the measurements (inside spread, both main beam lenghts, tine lengths, and the circumferences) and this is the gross score. To get the final score you must subtract from the gross score the difference between the different measurements. For example if the left beam is 20 inches and the right beam is 18 inches then you must subtract 2 inches from the gross. Do this for the circ. and point length measurments as well. This will give you the buck net score.

The Pope and Young club was founded in 1961 in honor of pioneer bowhunters Dr. Saxton Pope and Arthur Young . The club advocates and encourages responsible bowhunting by promoting quality fair chase hunting on all species of game. Pope and Young records are officially updated every 2 years, with the highest scoring animals being judged by a panel of official scorers.

The following information is how to rough score a rack. It by no means makes the criteria to be used in making difficult scoring judgments. The official score must be obtained from an official Pope and Young scorer.

A rack must be air dried for sixty days before it can be officially scored and entered into the Pope and Young records, but a rough score as we will do in this article can be done at any time. This contest will be using rough gross scores as a means of judgement.

Here is how the scoring system works:

In simple terms measurements are taken of the typical frame of the antlers first. These include the length of tines, length of main beams, and circumferences along the main beam as well as the greatest inside spread between the antlers. Once the typical frame has been accounted for, any and all non-typical points are measured and added into this rough total.
From this subtotal, or "gross score" as it is commonly referred to, discrepencies in tine length, beam length, and length of abnomal points are deducted to achieve a net score.

Typical antlers: There are two categories within the scoring system for whitetail deer: Typical and Non–typical. Typical scoring gives high priority to symmetry. On a typical buck both side-to-side discrepancies and abnormal points count against the final score.

Non-typical antlers: If a buck has at least one abnormal point Pope & Young permits it to be scored as either a typical or non-typical at the discretion of the hunter. An abnormal point is any point that doesn’t originate off the top of the main beam or any point off the top of the main beam that appears to be out of place, not matching the normal spacing of the tines of the other antler.  When sticker points are long, whether or not it is considered a typical point comes down to it's spacing along the beam and becomes a judgment call best left to an experienced trained official scorer.

Official scorers use a ¼ inch wide steel tape measure to make all measurements. While this may be the most consistent way to get exact readings you can get by with using a cloth tape measure similar to those used by a seamstress.

*SCORES ARE MEASURED TO THE NEAREST 1/8TH INCH*

Measuring tines:

The first step in measuring a tine is to determine where it begins. You’ll need a pencil to mark this location. On points that come off the main beam you first have to make a mark across the base of the tine that approximates the top of the beam. This is generally done by using a straightedge to span from the low points along the top of the beam on either side of the point. This is done on the outside of the rack. Make a mark on the tine and go to the next one. Measure from here to the tip of the tine, following the centerline of the tine along the outside of the rack.

When measuring abnormal points that come off other points you follow a very similar procedure. First determine where the edge of the primary point would be if the point were not there. Make a mark here and measure from this point along the centerline of the abnormal point out to it's end
Measuring circumferences:

Regardless of the number of points the buck has, you get four circumference measurements on each beam. Circumference is often referred to as mass because it indicates the bulkiness of the rack. All circumferences are taken at the smallest point between two tines or at designated locations along the main beam if the buck has eight or fewer typical points. The first circumference is taken at the smallest point between the base and the brow tine. The second is taken at the smallest point between the brow tine (called the G1) and first primary typical point (called G2). If the beam has only two points (three total) the next measurement is taken 1/3 of the way from the lst point to the end of the main beam and the fourth is taken 2/3 of the way out. If the beam only has three points (four points total) the fourth circumference is taken half way between the last point and the end of the main beam.
Measuring the Main Beams

The main beams are measured along their centerline from the base all the way to the tip. Measure the length along the outside of the rack.

Measuring inside spread:

Inside spread is the greatest distance between the beams when measured parallel to the base. In other words, you can’t angle the tape in hopes of making the rack wider. The inside spread cannot be larger than the measurment of the longest main beam. In other words, if your inside spread is less than the length of the longest main beam, you use that measurement. If the inside spread is larger than the longest main beam, you would use the measurement of the main beam and not the spread.

When you're all finished with your measurements, you total them up and that is your gross score. Just to make sure you have everything, you should have the following measurements:

Inside Spread

Main Beam x 2 (1 for each side)

Typical Tines x however many your deer has

Non-Typical Tines x however many your deer has

Circumference Measurements x 8 (4 for each side)

By following these instructions and looking at the diagrams on the Pope and Young score sheets you should be able to come up with a rough score on your own using the information above and on the score sheet.